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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Member
Joined: 3/7/2010
Posts: 85
Location: Ohio
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I just picked up a Bally Flash Gordon on the severely cheap. Lets start with the good. Backglass looks good for it's age.  The bad: Playfield is uneven... looks like decals were placed in various spots to cover up chipping. Due to this, there are several seams in the field. Not entirely sure how to attack these yet.  The ugly: Previous op had his own way of doing things... SBA coin op mech is a bit rusted and doesn't work. So the op was kind enough to snip this wire instead of just pulling the bulb  Slam tilt sensor was just too much of a hassle for this op.  Op just couldn't spring for a grounded plug.  So, as it stands I've yet to power it up. Op informs me that it's blowing 20A fuses (F1). This poor old power module looks like it's seen better days.  The rear screw behind the transformer connector is stuck so solid I might have to drill it out. At least one diode is corroded, so I'm not sure if I'm going to replace the bad bits or just scrap the whole module. Assuming I can get the damn thing out. Update: BR1 is shot. It's somehow managed to diagonally bridge itself, while breaking the normal connections. Epic.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Member
Joined: 12/8/2007
Posts: 164
Location: Middle o' Oregon
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A shorted BR1 would account for F1 blowing. doesn't look like a real tough fix. Keep us posted on progress. 
"Knowledge is Good." - Emil Faber
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Rank: Administration
Groups: Administration
Joined: 6/15/2007
Posts: 172
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Yea looking at that thing I would replace all the bridges and anything else that happens to be on the underside of that board. Let us know how you make out.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Member
Joined: 3/7/2010
Posts: 85
Location: Ohio
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MPU doesn't boot. Solid light with no flashes. +5 and +12 test points are 1v low at the MPU, .5 volts low at the rectifier board. Waiting on a rebuild kit. Nice to see an MPU that's not covered in corrosion though.  That dinky old cord has been replaced. It's a bit overkill, but it fits.  Rollovers have seen some serious abuse. Not sure if these can be properly fixed.   Plastics are yellowed a bit, but otherwise cleaned up nicely. It's interesting to note that a majority of the dirt was on the underside. Probably due to dirt being carried off the playfield due to the heat.  the playfield is also cleaning up decently, and should look ok after a wax.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Member
Joined: 12/8/2007
Posts: 164
Location: Middle o' Oregon
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so far so good. PBR has plenty of rollover inserts. I'd clip that old battery off the mpu before it does become covered in spew. keep at it. 
"Knowledge is Good." - Emil Faber
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Member
Joined: 3/7/2010
Posts: 85
Location: Ohio
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Rebuilt the rectifier, but the MPU still isn't booting. 5v rail is still way too low. Someone mentioned C23 on the solenoid driver board could cause this, and tapping the cap with a screwdriver resulted in the +5 rail dropping even further to .4v, so I've got a new one on order. Fuses aren't blowing anymore though. 
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Member
Joined: 3/7/2010
Posts: 85
Location: Ohio
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I just got the replacement solenoid driver board in the mail. Installed it and..
ITS ALIVE!
So, status from here:
- Sound works now. J3 wasn't connected. The connector doesn't match up with the header, but after some googling, I found the correct way to hook it up. S&T fully functional. Yay!
- Lights are in a sorry state. A few bad sockets, and a whole lot of bad bulbs. I ate through the 40 I ordered, and there are at least 20 more dead ones.
- Fixed two stuck switches. I noticed however that several other switches don't close. I tried cleaning the contacts, but nothing seem to get them to trigger. This includes the ball return sensor, right drain, right jet bumper, and those are only the ones I've seen so far. Not sure what's going on.
- All solenoids work except #3 (Kickout). Resistance across the coil is 14.3 ohms, and it doesn't seem to bind at all. Seller assures me that all transistors worked when he shipped it out, and it was tested in a bally test fixture. Not sure what to think, but I can't think of any other tests to do.
- All displays work! Even after riding the 280v train of abuse, all displays are still 100%.
At this point I'm thinking I might have a damaged harness or bad ground somewhere. I can't think of anything else that would cause non-firing switches. Maybe the solenoid is related, or maybe it's bad in some new imaginative way.
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Rank: Administration
Groups: Administration
Joined: 6/15/2007
Posts: 172
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I am curious to see the end result, keep up the good work!
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Member
Joined: 3/7/2010
Posts: 85
Location: Ohio
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Well, the PF cleanup was pretty much a write off. The more I cleaned it the worst it got, so I've just settled to removing any loose paint, getting all the tape off, and giving it a couple runs with novus 1. So I wouldn't hold your hopes too high  As for the existing issues, the switch problem was an easy fix. If you look back to that picture of the back box, notice the stray wire heading up to the MPU? That's a patch to fix a bad wire. That green stuff is tape. Masking tape. And underneath is the world's worst wire splice. No solder, no caps, just a shielding splice and a wire wrapped around and taped up. Fixed that up and the switches are triggering again. I'll take a full tally of needed PF parts tomorrow, and place what will hopefully be the last order before I start reassembling it.
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